Looking for an out-of-the-ordinary visit to escape the city grind? Then head up to the hills of the north to discover the hidden secrets of Balamand. And,on your return, stop at the coastal village of Anfeh to explore its historical marvels
1. Ethnography
and Historical
Museum
Since opening in 1988, the University of
Balamand (06 930250) has evolved into
one of Lebanon’s top universities. The
vast 454,000m2 campus overlooks the
Mediterranean, surrounded by luscious
olive and oak trees, and encompasses
nine faculties and a dozen research
centers. Though the aromatic scents of
nature might capture your imagination,
the achievements of the university are
equally overwhelming. The university has
developed high caliber programs that
are both challenging and competitive,
such as the fascinating Ethnography
and Historical Museum (06 930250/1462
for guided tour with Samer Amhaz
and Raya Dagher). Previously home to
farm animals, today the “Goat House”
documents a narrative of rural life in
the region. Founded by the Orthodox
Church, this once theological-orientated
university has modernized into a
renowned center of learning and a hub
for the preservation of the area’s heritage.
2. Pay a visit to
the monks
For 850 years, the Lady of Balamand
Patriarchal Monastery (06 930311,
Al-Kurah, N. Lebanon) has majestically
stood atop a 200 meter cliff with a
breathtaking view of the Mediterranean.
Located 16km southeast of Tripoli, the
monastery was built by monks during
the Crusader period around 1157. Years
later it was abandoned and in ruins, only
to be rebuilt again in the 17th century by
Greek Orthodox monks. Architecturally,
the structure of the monastery is
impressive and like all other Cistercian
abbeys it features a central courtyard
surrounded by a portico. Framed by the
breathtaking beauty of the coastal plains,
inside the monastery’s walls the silence
resonates with only the occasional
soundtrack of undetected birds in flight.
The library is also not to be missed; it
features important religious icons and
endless manuscripts (special permission
required for viewing.) For a guided tour
of the monastery, call ahead of time.
3. Ancient
frescos
The 900-year-old Deir El Natour
Monastery stands on the cape of Al
Natour. Surrounded by fields of a myrtle
plant and endless rows of salt marshes,
this small simple church hides within
its walls incredible treasures that date
back to the Byzantine Empire. The church
was recently excavated and renovated
by University of Balamand to protect
historical finds. Beautiful frescos adorn
its walls and ceilings, retelling ancient
religious stories in detailed brush
strokes. After a tour of the church, climb
the stairs for some of the best views
in the country: an unobstructed vision
of the waves crashing onto the rocky
shore. Although you can’t call ahead,
Sister Catherine is usually on site and
will happily guide you through the
monastery.
4. Stroll through
the port
Small and quaint, Anfeh Port is filled with
small fishing boats, revealing the main
trade of the area. Small blue and white
shacks line the rocky beach, and bring
to mind images of Greece. Each family
in the village owns a hut and their own
private fishing abode. Maintaining the
hospitable traditions of the past, visitors
are likely to be welcomed in with an
“Ahlan wah Sahlan!”
5. Anfeh’s
historic
churches
Seemingly untouched by the modern
world, the haphazardly built huts in
Anfeh village stand next to historically
significant houses, passed down from
generation to generation. There’s
nothing like a local to guide you around,
and Hafiz Jreish (03 540215, 06 541561)
is an advocate for the conservation of
Anfeh’s traditions. Visit the Church of
the Lady of the Wind, one of the oldest
churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Built in the Byzantine era, the building’s
layers reveal the many civilizations that
once called it home. The South wall
frescoes show a depiction of the Virgin
Mary calming a storm. Sailors from the
village originally built the chapel in her
honor. Pass by the 12th century Church
of Saint Catherine, the country’s only
remaining Romanesque church. Next,
go down a few steps and admire the
two Byzantine Churches of Saint Simeon
and the Archangel Gabriel. Don’t
miss the elementary sound-proofing
imbedded jars used to reduce noise in
the church.
6. The remains
of a once
grand fort
Once upon a crusader’s time, a majestic
fort rested precariously at the edge of
a rocky mound on the Anfeh peninsula,
now known by locals as Rass Anfeh.
Anfeh Fort and Trench was considered the
greatest and most fortified in the Levant,
once featuring twelve towers and two
trenches, separating it from the mainland.
When the Mamluk army conquered the
lords of Tripoli, the castle was destroyed
and nothing remained but one solitary
rock pillar. The fort had two seawater filled
moats that separated the fort from the
mainland. Dried up and abandoned, the
trenches have lost their imposing purpose
as protective measures against invaders;
one buried under centuries of rubble and
damage, the other named “Al-Khandaq”
is still visible, but only a dry shadow of
its former role. Civilizations have passed
through this land, but only a small imprint
of their presence remains. Nevertheless,
sitting at the top end of the peninsula,
where the citadel once grandiosely stood,
you feel the weight of history as the
northern winds pass.
7. Ghost-filled
chambers
Hanging over the rocky port of Anfeh’s
coastline are a series of stone engravings
and caves dug into the bedrock.
Rocky stairways, tomb-like holes and
houses cut into the stones, speak of an
abandoned town. Villagers still advise
against entering these chambers, as
ghosts of the past are thought to haunt
its crevices.
8. Salt of the
land
Looking for a gold rush? The “white gold”
that stretches the length of Anfeh bay
should satisfy. Ancient tablets dating
from 1400BC describe the superior
quality of Anfeh salt, once extracted
through salinas, carved ponds in the
coastal rocks that filled with salt water.
After evaporation by sun and wind,
the salt crystals gathered and were
transported by caravan. Centuries
later, Anfeh’s salt marshes remain an
economic resource for its residents. In
1995, windmills and terraces received
funding for renovations, yet they are still
in need of further repair.
9. Dinosaur
relics
If you think you’ve seen it all, think
again. Girgi Sessine (03 695181) will
guide you to the edge of Anfeh where,
according to him, the shore reached
the highway some 100,000 years ago.
When the sea receded, prehistoric caves
were discovered. Although we cannot
vouch for its scientific validity, the fissure
cave still gives you goose bumps while
imagining its ancient past. There, Sassine
displays various marine fossils, animal
skeletons, and even its latest resident’s
boots. The limestone cave has a fissure
in its ceiling letting light sneak through.
Adjacent is Layla’s Cave, not named after
some early cave woman, but its modernday
resident, Layla, who is happy to
guide you around. It is near impossible
to discover the 50 or so caves in Anfeh
without guidance, so call ahead of time
for a tour that is certainly out of the
ordinary
10. Arguileh on
the seafront
There are few restaurants in Anfeh, so
prepare a picnic basket and head for
the beach, though no doubt you’ll be
invited for a BBQ and arguileh from a
local or two. The unbelievably clear water,
perhaps the cleanest in Lebanon, calls
out for a dip.