“Forests tell us the story of human history. They hold the imprints of past and present civilizations and their connection to nature,” says Elsa J. Sattout, the biodiversity conservationist behind the new book “Native Trees of Lebanon & Neighboring Countries”
My four-season journey started in Horsh
Ehden nature reserve a year ago while
chasing native trees for photo shoots
for the production of my book. The
journey started in coastal forests, before
crossing over the highest peaks of the
Mount Lebanon mountain range to reach
the inland forests of the Anti-Lebanon
mountains.
In Ehden, trails forged long ago by
farmers, foresters, villagers and nature
lovers, lead to wonders in a small forest,
located on the foothills of Mount
Makmel, Northern Lebanon. Taking the
road to Jouit, from the main entrance of
the forest, a green island appears amidst
the high mountain peaks, longing for
winter, spring, summer, and autumnal
visitors. In this forest the diversity of
tree communities is enchanting. They
represent most Lebanese forest types,
forming a mosaic of island forests, spread
across nine sub-regions. Explore the
forest throughout the four seasons to
witness the seasonal transformation of
the trees.
Looking over the mosaic patches of
vegetation, from the highest peaks of
Arid El Moghr or Jouar El Jafie, gives an
eternal connection to the beauty and
stillness of nature. Over these highest
peaks, Bonelli eagles can be seen flying
during spring. Jouar El Jafie is covered
with an evergreen cedar and junipertapestry where whitish primroses,
orchids, and the endemic reddish-purple
cyclamen can be seen after the snow
melts. On Arid El Moghr discover Cedar
oak, maple and other deciduous trees
with colors that take your breath away
during fall.
The Wadiane El Gamiqua (Deep Valley),
with western-south exposure, is home
to a mix of hop hornbeam, wild service
trees, flowering ash, Calabrian pine,
Lebanese cedar, and wild plum. Taking
the trail from Jouit, leading to a spot
called Ain El Naassa, you can sit in the
shade of an ancient oriental plane tree.
Shift your path to traverse Dahr Tnoub
El Ali (Tnoub meaning cedar or fir in
Arabic) where old cedar trees grow and
dominate the patches of Turkey oak
(Maqlab El Ezr).
If you decide to explore the foothills of
the reserve, you can start with Qornet
El Snaoubar from where you can access
Qornet El Assi, Wadi El Baq and Wadi El
Qiame. The Qornet El Snaoubar (Pine
corner) sub-region is home to many
orchids during spring and a large
population of squirrels, often seen on the
dirt road leading to Wadi El Baq (Bugs
Valley) or Wadi Jhanam (Valley of Hell).
Qornet El Assi is occupied by kermes oak,
dogwood tree and buckthorn; you have
to be persistent to cross this dense area,
which lives up to its name and means
‘disobedience’ and ‘stubbornness’ in
Arabic. The Wadi El Qiame (Resurrection
Valley), of east-northern exposure,
is covered most of the year by mist,
especially in the afternoons. Cedar trees
enjoy a dry summertime in this humid
valley, which features terraces recalling
past farming systems and agricultural
practices.
Looping the nine sub-regions of Horsh
Ehden in a day, while trekking off-trail on
short laps, is an enriching adventure; an
unforgettable four-season journey in one
of the most charming, colorful forests
in the country. The forest holds deep
contrasts, like Lebanon itself, reflecting the
beautiful contradictions found in nature.
WHERE TO EAT
Al Fardous, Ehden, 06 560605
La Reserve, Ehden, 06 561092
Facebook: LaReserveHorshEhden
Pinch, Zgharta in winter, Ehden
Jul – Sep, 03 823900
WHERE TO SLEEP
Kroum Ehden
06 561560
Ehden Country Club
06 560651
La Reserve (as above)
Master’s Hotel
06 561052/3/4
La Mairie
06 560108
GO WITH A GUIDE
Ehden Adventure
76 556887
Ehden Mountain Activities
03 754928
Facebook: EhdenMountainActivities
HOW TO GET THERE
A 160km drive from Beirut, take the northern highway from Beirut to Chekka. From there take the road leading to Koura, Kosba, Torza, Arbet Qoshaya, Ejbe’e, and Ehden. The main entrance of the reserve is in Jouit.